Editor reviews Anastasi Seafood in Italian Market

By Sam Fran Scavuzzo
Collegian Editor
October 31, 2007

How important is atmosphere to you? If in good company, an interesting setting and a lighthouse in the middle of a restaurant are all you need, then Anastasi Seafood in the Italian Market should be sufficient.

However, if you are looking for a good meal at a cheap price, neither will be found at this fourth-generation authentic seafood market and restaurant.

When you enter the small establishment at the corner of Ninth Street and Washington Avenue—a few blocks from the neon Mecca of Pat’s and Geno’s—two thoughts enter your mind: “Wow, this really is a fish market,” and “Is that an eight foot-tall lighthouse?”

Running businesses at the market since before the Depression, the Anastasi family originally started a fish market, which later evolved into a restaurant. Anastasi’s Web site brags of “100 fresh or live products…with an intimate and tastefully decorated restaurant.” It neglects to mention a good meal, though.

A large cube of Plexiglas located in the middle of the room separates the fish market from the restaurant. And, although plainly visible, no awkward sea odors emanate from the market to distract the dining experience. On the contrary, the quaint simplicity – and knowledge that the food is fresh – allows the diner to thoroughly become immersed in the ancient South Philly eatery.

Located in the middle of the dining area – and I feel serving as a support column for the building – is a large, decorated light-house you may miss at first glance. That coupled with an underwater pattern on the Plexiglas made for a restaurant that Neptune would feel comfortable hanging out in.

Calling for reservations is recommended, as there are only a few tables. Regulars crowd the bar and often spill over into the seating. However, the friendly neighborhood feel that comes from this makes eating at Anastasi Seafood like eating at a family member’s home.

All of the great aesthetic and atmospheric glory that came from the restaurant can not take away from the fact that three out of the four diners I went with did not enjoy their meal – including myself.

Orders were entered wrong, bread tasted stale, sodas were flat and some beer appeared skunky. The only truly enjoyable dish was an appetizer of steamed mussels. Often with seafood, it is a crap shoot. However, I do not suggest this aspect was bad. I feel the presentation and preparation of the food was inadequate. If most meals were kept simple – like the mussels – and let the seafood stand for itself, then they would be more enjoyable.

If the meal was cheap, then poor food may be pardonable. But with prices in the high teens and mid-twenties, I expected more. Although I will say the bar – for the most part – was reasonably priced.

Everything about Anastasi’s made me want to like it and I am willing to go back and give it another shot. I hope that it was only a bad night and batch of orders. Nevertheless, the most important thing at a restaurant is the quality of the meals, and Anastasi Seafood failed to please the pallet.

scavuzzos1@lasalle.edu